Gastronome

Pho Tai LAWRENCE TABUDLO PHOTO

PHO HUONG LAN
100 N. Beretania St. #129B
Phone number (808) 538-6707

A few weeks ago, I asked Metro readers where I might find the best pho on this island. The response was fantastic, and more than once, I’ve caught myself daydreaming about all the pho I’ll “have” to eat.

It was difficult to decide where to visit first, but there was one email in particular that caught my eye. In it, a heartfelt plea from Wynnie H. of Mililani that I try Pho Huong Lan, complete with seven very specific reasons why it is the best.

So last week, I dragged some Metro staffers to Chinatown to check this place out.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

“It’s clean,” Wynnie wrote. Indeed, it felt that way when we first walked in — albeit, as clean as any hole-in-the-wall restaurant could be. As we sat down, I also made note of the table: thoroughly clean with condiment containers that didn’t look neglected. (There really is no worse feeling than to reach over for a bottle and feel your fingers touch sticky, crusty residue.)

So far, so good.

GARNISHES

Everything was fresh and abundant. A plate of bean sprouts and basil brought to the table was near overflowing, and without any blemishes to make me question eating it.

Sometimes when I eat pho, I order an extra plate of veggies because there’s never quite enough basil. This time, though, I equally split everything with my tablemate, and not out of politeness.

THE BROTH

The broth at Pho Huong Lan was not too oily, which is key. Here, it was light and aromatic, brightened with the addition of fresh cilantro.

Basically, I couldn’t stop sipping it.

I’m sad to report, though, that this is only the second best broth I’ve had so far — sorry, Wynnie! (My favorite currently remains at Pho Viet Thein Hong in Manoa Marketplace.)

MEAT

To be honest, I don’t think much of meat when I eat pho. I eat it because I like the broth and basil. But I tried it here, and the steak I ordered was tender and soft, enhanced by the broth it simmered in — so, no complaints from me. And for those who like to watch it cook, meat also can be ordered on the side.

Wynnie suggested the beef tendon, mentioning that Pho Huong Lan is one of a few places she has been able to find it. Metro social media manager Nicole Kato sampled this one, and while she certainly would eat at Pho Huong Lan and order the beef tendon again, it didn’t “wow” her.

SERVICE

There was nothing remarkable about the service, though not in a bad way. Everything was quick and efficient, which I’ve quickly come to attribute to pho joints in general. And the wait staff was polite and very patient with our large party’s order and check.

AMBIANCE

“(The) ambiance is nothing to rave about, but they try,” wrote Wynnie.

True.

When we first walked in, the room was awkwardly quiet. There was no radio playing music to help drown out conversations, just the occasional murmur from a nearby table or the sound of dishes clanking.

But as the lunchtime crowd began to fill the dining room, things became much more comfortable. So just be prepared to eat silently, talk quietly or just not care about the noise you might be creating.

RATING:

Would I return to Pho Huong Lan? Sure. So thank you, Wynnie, for the recommendation. Traversing throughout Chinatown sometimes can be a pain because of limited parking, but Pho Huong Lan’s location in Chinatown Cultural Plaza Center was convenient. Plus, Regal Bakery right around the corner means a guaranteed dessert.

P.S. I am still accepting pho recommendations! Tell me where you eat pho. Send an email to jkim@midweek.com or find me on Instagram @jaimie.kim.

What’s In A Spring Roll?
EVERYTHING

Spring Roll LAWRENCE TABUDLO PHOTO

As much as I love pho, I also love spring rolls. So with every bowl of pho, I also order some “cha gio” on the side.

Pho Huong Lan’s spring rolls were tasty, and most importantly, crispy. An added bonus: The lettuce leaves that accompanied it were not too large.

SPAM

JAIMIE KIM PHOTO

At this past weekend’s 13th annual Waikiki SPAM JAM, crowds were introduced to a new SPAM flavor: Portuguese Sausage. Not entirely surprising when you consider that this latest product combines Hawaii’s love of the canned meat and Portuguese sausage.

Metro got its hands on a can and cooked it up to give it a taste. The verdict? It was much more normal than we thought it was going to be.

Its flavor tastes exactly like that of Portuguese sausage, but instead of having that lumpy texture, everything was soft and even like regular SPAM.

Personally, once I started sampling it, I couldn’t stop eating it.

But for the most part, call us traditionalists. Our favorite will always remain SPAM Classic.