Gastronome

Complimentary dessert JAIMIE KIM PHOTOS

TEMPURA ICHIDAI
Ala Moana Center
1450 Ala Moana Blvd.
Second floor, Ewa Wing
Phone number (808) 955-8899

For the past two weeks, I have been trying in earnest to make my way to Café Julia for Gastronome, but have failed miserably.

My first attempt was brought to an end when Hawaii Five-0 filming clogged Alakea Street, fueling my “hangry” predisposition. This past week, parking at Alii Place was full, and I am the absolute worst at street parking.
So I wish I had a better anecdote of how I ended up at Tempura Ichidai, but I don’t. As I drove down Kapiolani Boulevard looking for inspiration, I opted for the ease of parking Ala Moana Center offers. And correctly predicting the restaurant probably wouldn’t be busy in the middle of a Tuesday, I made my way to the Ewa Wing where Tempura Ichidai is located.

A portion of the Vegetable Tempura Teishoku

Here’s the thing: I enjoy tempura, I really do. But I prefer it as an accompaniment to something else — soba, udon, misoyaki butterfish. If you’re like me at all, perhaps think twice about a trip to Tempura Ichidai because tempura is the only thing you’re going to find on the menu.

Miso soup and tsukemono

I will say, though, that the tempura I did have in my Vegetable Tempura Teishoku (which included lotus root, asparagus, sweet potato, heart of palm, kabocha and kale) was exceptional — light, crispy, hot. It helped that everything came out in phases as it was being cooked, and not all at once. Plates on the table with little racks on which waiters placed each piece of tempura also prevented it from getting soggy too quickly.

More from the Vegetable Tempura Teishoku

The ambiance, too, is quite nice, with contemporary décor and fun lantern light fixtures —not surprising since Tempura Ichidai comes from the same Japanese company that opened Café Lani earlier this year (which you can read about at metrohnl.com). By the way, look forward to bread filled with azuki bean courtesy of Café Lani as a complimentary dessert.

Shrimp Tempura Donburi Set

Overall, it was a satisfying meal with just-right portions and quick service, albeit a little too oily for a mid-day meal. The miso soup and tsukemono (Japanese pickles) that came with the dish also were great to nibble on between bites of tempura.

Still, I left feeling just OK about my experience there — not thrilled or terribly disappointed. Would I go back to Tempura Ichidai? Sure, if I were with someone who wanted to try it. But I think a tempura-only restaurant is an almost too-ambitious concept. Japanese cuisine is so broad, which is why I think I’ll stick to places where I can sample a little bit of everything.

NEW FOOD TO TRY

Fresh out of the oven today (Friday) is a new spin on Magnolia Bakery’s Banana Pudding. This one features the inclusion of chocolate — layers of pudding, OREO wafers, fresh bananas and chocolate shavings.

Personally, I think chocolate should be added to everything, so this is a welcome addition to the lineup at Magnolia Bakery, where I still have not tried something I don’t like. Just earlier this week I grabbed a Strawberry Scone that I’m still fondly reminiscing about.

I had staff writer Paige Takeya give it a try and she describes it like this: “It’s rich and chocolatey, but it has a whipped, light texture that makes it extremely compelling, even if I happen to dislike bananas. This is such a great pudding, I am enjoying bananas. It’s that good.”