Gastronome

HOKU’S AT THE KAHALA HOTEL & RESORT
5000 Kahala Ave.
Phone number(808) 739-8760
website kahalaresort.com

My evening last Tuesday was, in a word, decadent. OK, three words: super deliciously decadent.

I was invited to attend a media preview of the new menu crafted by recently appointed chef de cuisine Hiroshi Inoue at Hoku’s at The Kahala Hotel & Resort. What ensued was a 10-course meal — wine pairings included — that has made everything I’ve eaten since pale in comparison.

Inoue later revealed to me that it’s his favorite of the menu I sampled.

“My inspiration behind this dish is the lush, beautiful, natural landscape in the Hawaiian Islands that I truly admired when I moved here from Japan earlier this year,” he says.

“I wanted to create something that stimulates the senses of sight, touch, smell, taste and feel,” he adds.

It was an unexpected, almost playful start to a night of fine dining, and accomplished exactly that.

I loved it.

Every single thing I ate that night, I would order again in a heartbeat. There was a Black Pepper and Sesame Crusted Rare Ahi Steak that made me forget for a moment that I’d begun to feel bored with cooked ahi. Then there was a Grilled Guinea Hen Breast served with Yukon potato and truffle Napoleon, and a natural jus I’d eat with just about anything.

But my favorite item that evening was a Hamachi Shot. I was skeptical about being able to eat everything all at once, so I instead attacked it with chopsticks. I’m glad I did. It allowed me to really experience and savor every bite of hamachi, paired with avocado, crispy sushi ginger, micro greens and a truffle ponzu vinaigrette that really cut through everything.

As much as I loved every savory course I ate that evening, I couldn’t help but look forward to dessert, too. This meal happened to come with three from pastry chef Todd Champagne.

My favorite was a Kaffir Lime Ginger Cheesecake. It didn’t have the density cheesecake usually has. Instead, it was light and airy, almost like a mousse, with flavors just as bright. Macerated tropical fruit (in this case, mango) paired well with each bite

Somehow, I managed to make it through the entire meal without leaving much on my plate after each course (the same could be said of my wine glasses).

I had always envisioned Hoku’s as a place better suited to my parents — safe, fine dining. But last week’s experience felt new, inventive and exciting. My parents, of course, would get a kick out of the menu, but so did I.

Inoue says this of what he hopes to accomplish at Hoku’s: “I want to offer a dining experience that will take our guests on a culinary journey around the world so they can visit places through our cuisine.”

That is a vision I can get behind. And now I know exactly where I plan on celebrating my birthday this year.

HAWAII FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

A long, unfulfilled dream of mine has been to attend some portion of the Hawaii Food & Wine Festival. Alas, tickets are prone to go quickly, and some events in particular can be incredibly pricey.

But if you’re in the mood to splurge and rub shoulders with some of the best chefs around, then mark your calendar for the fifth Hawaii Food & Wine Festival, set to take place on Oahu Sept. 9-13, after it stops on Hawaii island and Maui.

Events range from wine and meal pairings to a Battle of the Brunch Showdown that I’ve always been wanted to attend. Round two in this battle features reigning champs Lee Anne Wong and Sven Ullrich duking it out with Jackie Lau and Raphael Lunetta, and Chris Kajioka and Sherry Yard. (Tickets cost $115.)

Tickets and a complete schedule for all events may be found online at hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com.