Gastronome

I love Manoa. It has a lot to do with the time I spent in the area during my formative years, learning to bake with my grandma and picking flowers from her garden to make little arrangements.

It’s a lush, quiet valley minutes away from the city, a place where people still wave “thank you” on the roads. Plus, Manoa Marketplace has everything you’d ever need — which now happens to include two bakeries to choose from.

For years, I’ve remained loyal to Fendu Boulangerie. (This should come as no surprise to readers who may recall that owner and chef Niel Koep shared with me his recipe for Fendu’s Chocolate Marble Pound Cake a few months ago. You can find it online at metroHNL.com.) And so I almost felt affronted on Fendu’s behalf when I heard that another bakery recently had opened just a few doors down.

Still, curiosity got the better of me, and I finally stopped in at Breadbox Hawaii last week. But I ended up feeling guilty, so I also visited Fendu.

It all presented the perfect opportunity for me to introduce to you Gastronome’s inaugural Battle of the Breads.

VARIETY
ROUND ONE: TIE

Fendu’s Blueberry Danish

First, it’s important to understand that Fendu and Breadbox differ greatly in concept. At Fendu, you can find any number of traditional European creations. My favorites are the Blueberry Danish and Lychee Streusel Danish — both so delicately flaky and just the right amount of sweet. I also stand firm on my belief that Fendu has the best macarons on this island.

You’ll certainly find rec-ognizable items at Breadbox — donuts, cookies and other pastries. But here, its variety is a bit unexpected. Take, for instance, its Grand Marnier Donut, which was my favorite out of everything I sampled. It was light and airy, and had I let it rest in my mouth long enough, I’m convinced it would simply have melted. This is one thing I will return to Breadbox for.

Both Fendu and Breadbox offer an exciting selection. Having frequented Fendu since it first opened in 2009, I’ve never grown bored of what it has to offer. Breadbox, on the other hand, was exciting because it was new and different. Plus, like Fendu’s Lilikoi Cheesecake and Chocolate Mousse, Breadbox also offers flavored mousses and handmade truffles (I’d recommend trying the basil and yuzu flavors).

‘BREADABILITY’
ROUND TWO: FENDU

The author’s selection from BreadBox Hawaii

In addition to my donut from Breadbox, I also sampled its Strawberry Ginger Melon Pan and a couple of its breads (one with mangoes, and another with strawberries and pecans). For now, I’ll stick to the donuts. The breads were good, and the fruit added a nice texture and natural sweetness. But they were noticeably dense — maybe best enjoyed with a cup of tea or coffee, or glass of milk.

But consider Fendu’s Pumpkin Bread, which manages to be light and airy. (The same goes for the Chocolate Marble Cake I mentioned earlier.)

In this second and final round of breadability — a term I’ve completely made up and will trademark — I give it to Fendu.

Breadbox’s basil and yuzu truffles

My suggestion: Visit both and engage in your own Battle of the Breads. And while you’re at it, treat yourself to a stroll around Manoa to appreciate all its wonderfulness and, you know, work off all those carbs.

BreadBox Hawaii
Manoa Marketplace
2752 Woodlawn Dr.
Phone: (808)988-8822

Fendu Boulangerie
Manoa Marketplace
2752 Woodland Dr.
Phone: (808)988-4310

WHERE THE PHO?

Admittedly, this next installation of my quest for pho was determined by convenience. It also happens to tie in nicely with my love for all things Manoa, because on the second floor of Manoa Marketplace, you will find Pho Viet Thien Hong, aka my favorite place so far.

The place itself is nothing too fancy. Inside is an expansive room with plenty of tables for two, or larger groups. Within the past few months especially, I’ve frequented Pho Viet Thein Hong at all hours of the day and have never found myself waiting for a table.

But what has really made Pho Viet Thein Hong the best so far is its broth. It’s so light and aromatic that I can’t help but drink all of it. Plus, the spring rolls are not too large and always are perfectly crispy. To top it all off, the service is quick and friendly. I think I am going to have to stop in again soon. You know, for “research.”

Fun and very random fact about this place: Literally every time I have gone in, I hear the same song on the radio. Janet Jackson’s Miss You Much.