Gastronome

Shoyu Jidori

Ramen, it seems, is popping up around town faster than the highrise condos going up, well, everywhere.

Make no mistake: This is not a complaint. But it has created somewhat of a divide among friends when it comes to determining a place to eat.

Lately, I’ve been arguing strongly in favor of AGU Ramen.

Finding AGU was sort of like stumbling upon something I didn’t even know I was searching for. Ramen was just ramen, and I was willing to eat it anywhere. Now, AGU is the only place I want.

Appalled that Metro staff writer Paige Takeya had yet to try AGU, social media manager Nicole Kato and I took her to its Ward location for lunch last week.

It was exactly the experience I’ve come to expect. The service was fast and friendly, and though all that starch made me incredibly tired afterward, my palate was content.

Later, after returning to the office, Paige told me she thought it was “good, but not remarkable.” Well, fine, Paige. Whatever. Friendship over. That is how much I love AGU.

I’ve only ever eaten the Shoyu Jidori Ramen, and it is all I ever need. The broth is rich in flavor but not overwhelmingly oily. The noodles are never overcooked and are the right balance of gummy and soft. Menma (bamboo shoots), with its crunchy texture, is my favorite addition.

And then there is the aji tamago, a soft-boiled egg so delicately cooked and just the slightest bit sweet. It’s a strong component of AGU’s ramen — and even Paige agreed that it was worth raving about.

While I may not be able to completely convert Paige (see accompanying sidebar to find out where Paige likes to get her ramen fix), at least I (sort of) have Nicole on my side.

(P.S. Nicole’s Kotteri Ramen is worth an honorable mention. It’s a dark, garlicky broth that overwhelmed the senses but still managed to be light. I’d order it for sure, but only if I had a toothbrush on hand or were going directly home.)

AND NOW A SIDEBAR ON SIDES

As much as I like to settle in and immerse myself in a bowl of ramen, I also really look forward to side dishes. Gyoza in particular is something I always order, regardless of where I am. It’s just one of those things, you know? Like how a burger wouldn’t be complete without fries on the side.

Gyoza

The gyoza at AGU Ramen never disappoints. Though, unlike its broth, I can’t say there’s anything remarkably special about it. On a positive note, it always has been cooked perfectly, plump and slightly crispy.

Karaage

On this most recent visit, I decided to try something new there, and ordered the Karaage as well. It was … OK. The texture was great. I mean, you really can’t go wrong with deep-fried chicken. But after taking a bite, I found myself feeling hesitant to finish it. It was a bright and dark pinkish color that had me worried it was maybe undercooked. No one else at the table encountered the same thing, so maybe it was a fluke.

Regardless, I think I’ll stick to my ramen and gyoza combo.